HalloWing M4 Animated Eye Candy Bowl
2024-10-29 | By Adafruit Industries
License: See Original Project 3D Printing Displays LCD / TFT LEDs / Discrete / Modules
Courtesy of Adafruit
Guide by Ruiz Brothers
Overview
Animated Eye Upgrade
Upgrade this Haunted Candy Bowl with an Adafruit HalloWing M4! ‎Use the touch pads to change the side lit NeoPixel animations! ‎Customize the animated eyes and trick out your candy bowl to win ‎this year's Halloween!‎
Magic Touch
Touch the pads on the HalloWing M4 to change the NeoPixel ‎animations. Featured animations include a beating heart, fading ‎gradients and rainbows!‎
The Haunted Candy Bowl
This project uses the Animated Haunted Candy Bowl from Hyde and ‎Eek Boutique. It lights up, speaks phrases and features a mechanical ‎eye that moves side to side. ‎
Eye Candy Bowl
For the retail price you get a pretty nice case that looks pretty cool ‎and has a decent quality – This beats hours of 3D printing. Plus, it's ‎already designed for a Cyclops! We just couldn't resist adding the ‎HalloWing M4 to this thing. The "eye" puns aren't too bad either.‎
Project Goals
A few points we wanted to hit when making this project.‎
Fit the HalloWing M4 into the eye socket of the candy bowl ‎using a 3D printed mount.‎
Use the animated eyes and capacitive (cap) touch pads to ‎animate the HalloWing M4's side lit NeoPixel LEDs.‎
Use the existing slide switch to turn off/on the circuit.‎
Make the USB port accessible for reprogramming.‎
Setup HalloWing M4 with Animated ‎Eyes
Use the link below to launch the learn guide to get your HalloWing ‎M4 setup with the M4 eyes code. Setup is fast and easy, so once that ‎is done come back here and continue!‎
Parts
Here's a list of the parts used in this project:‎
‎4400Mah Lipo Battery‎
Adafruit HalloWing M4 Express - Goth Adafruit Black ‎Edition
Black Nylon Machine Screw and Stand-off Set – M2.5 ‎Thread
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Software
Configure The Eye
Once you have gone through the HalloWing M4 quick start guide, ‎you'll have the default "blue hazel" eye loaded and displaying. Feel ‎free to customize the settings or graphics! Reference the HalloWing ‎M4 learn guide to explore all the options.‎
Quick Start
Plug in your HalloWing M4 via a known good data+power USB ‎cable.‎
Double press the reset button and wait for the NeoPixels to ‎turn green.‎
The HALLOM4BOOT drive should show up on your computer. ‎
Download the UF2 file below and drop it onto the root of ‎the HALLOM4BOOT drive.‎
Touch Input
Use the touch pads to change the NeoPixel animations. There are ‎four different programmed NeoPixel animations. Halloween color ‎gradients, beating heart, breath, and rainbow. These will loop and ‎repeat automatically. ‎
Building from Source
This project uses a build of the M4 eyes from the Adafruit Learning ‎System GitHub repository (repo). For advanced customization, use ‎the link below to open the section of the Learn guide that walks ‎through setting up Arduino and uploading the code.‎
Get the code working on the HalloWing M4 before installing into the ‎candy bowl.‎
Author Credits: Give shout out to Jonathan ‎Sampson and LadyAda for writing the code for this project.‎
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Tear Down
Candy Bowl
We'll remove the eye mechanism, two motors and the candy bowl. ‎Decide if you'd like to use the built-in sound effects. There's plenty of ‎space inside the base for other components such as more LEDs!‎
Bottom Screws
Flip the bowl over and look on the bottom of the base. Notice there's ‎a removable door for accessing the battery. Find the four screws, one ‎on each corner.‎
Remove Bottom
Use a screwdriver to remove the four screws. The battery door is ‎secured with a single machine screw. The slide switch features two ‎modes with the "off" state being the middle. Save the four bottom ‎screws. Locate the small gap and use a tool with a thin and flat tip to ‎pry open the bottom plate. Separate the bottom panel from the base ‎by pushing out on the edges. ‎
Gut The Inside
With the bottom panel removed, start gutting out the motors by ‎removing screws. If you like to remove the internal LEDs, you can ‎use flush cutters to remove hot glue and pull out the LED bulbs.‎
Removing Bowl
The white candy bowl is secured to the base with three machine ‎screws. Use a screwdriver to unfasten and remove them. Save the ‎candy bowl and screws for later. We'll reinstall them after the ‎HalloWing M4 has been installed.‎
Removing Eye Mech
The eye mechanism is secured with two machine screws. The eye ‎mechanism uses a piece of string to pull the eye lids back. Untie the ‎string and remove any of the mounting bits and screws.‎
Eyes and Motors
The HalloWing M4 doesn't quite fit inside the eye mechanism, so we ‎won't not be using it in this project. We can save these components ‎for future projects!‎
Gutted Base
With all of the components, mounting bits and hardware screws ‎removed, base is now ready for installing the HalloWing M4. ‎
Bottom Components
The bottom base plate has a circuit board, IR sensor, speaker, slide ‎switch and battery holder. There was also a 2-pin JST connector for ‎the "try me" button switch. I swapped out the existing wiring for ‎silicone-cover stranded wires, just for organizational purposes (totally ‎optional). The slide switch is the only component we'll be using with ‎the HalloWing M4. This allows a convenient way to turn off/on the ‎HalloWing M4.‎
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Paper Template
Paper Template
Don't have access to a 3D printer? No problem! Print out a paper ‎template and use it to make your own PCB mount out of foam core, ‎cardboard or a sheet of plastic, dealers choice!‎
PDF Vector Artwork
Download the PDF and print it out on paper. This was designed to fit ‎on an 8.5in x 11in sheet of paper. The dimensions of the mount are ‎noted for checking if the scaling is correct after the print.‎
Foam Core Board
For this project we cut the shape out of foam core board. I suggest ‎adhering the paper template over the work piece first (glue stick). ‎Insert the tip of the blade to make several incisions and follow the ‎outline. Cutting curves can be tricky so take your time! A rotary tool ‎with a drill bit can be used to create the mounting holes.‎
Take caution and be careful when using knifes and operating power ‎tools! For best safety, young makers ought to have adult supervision.‎
PCB Mount Screws
Use the following hardware for mounting the HalloWing M4 to the ‎mount. Insert the nylon screw through one of the mounting holes ‎through the top. Hold in place and install standoff by fastening onto ‎screw thread.‎
4 x M2.5 x 8mm female to female standoffs‎
‎4x M2.5 x 4mm screws‎
Test Fitting
Follow the tear down section before test fitting the cut piece into the ‎base of the candy bowl. It should have a snug fit when press fitting it ‎through the eye hole. ‎
Cut Pieces
I made several cut pieces before getting the right shape and fitting. ‎Like stated above, cutting curves can be rather tricky! A few ‎attempts make for good practice. For this small part, cutting pieces ‎by hand beats dealing with 3D printers or laser cutters.‎
Lens Holder
The lens holder requires a bit more precision to fit the lens. If you ‎don't have a 3D printer, you can purchase the acrylic lens holder ‎from the shop. Longer screws may be needed to pass through acrylic, ‎PCB, and standoffs.‎
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‎3D Printing‎
‎3D Parts‎
STL files for 3D printing are oriented to print "as-is" on FDM style ‎machines. Original design source may be downloaded using the ‎links below.‎
Slicing Parts
The bowl has a 1.5mm thick shell and it can be printed without any ‎support material.‎
PLA filament 220c extruder
‎0.2-layer height
‎10% gyroid infill‎
‎60mm/s print speed‎
‎60c heated bed‎
Download CAD Files on Thingiverse
PCB Mount
The PCB mount features four mounting holes that are 3.5mm(0.14in) ‎in diameter. The center hole has a diameter of 18mm (0.7in).
Design Source Files
The project assembly was designed in Fusion 360. This can be ‎downloaded in different formats like STEP, SAT, and more. Electronic ‎components like Adafruit's board, displays, connectors and more can ‎be downloaded from our Adafruit CAD parts GitHub Repo.‎
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Lens Holder
Lens Holder
You'll need the following hardware to install the lens holder. These ‎are sourced from the M2.5 nylon standoff kit.‎
‎4x M2.5 x 8mm female to female standoffs‎
‎4x M2.5 x 4mm screws‎
Install Standoffs
Insert the M2.5 screw into one of the mounting tabs. While holding in ‎place, fasten a standoff onto the thread of the screw.‎
Lens Holder
We'll need 2x M2.5 x 4mm screws to secure the lens holder to the ‎PCB. Notice the orientation of the mounting tabs and the mounting ‎holes on the HalloWing M4.‎
Installing Lens Holder
Place the plastic lens over the display. Lay the lens holder over the ‎lens with the standoffs facing down. Line up the standoffs with the ‎mounting holes on the HalloWing M4 PCB.‎
Installed Screws
Notice we only have two screws installed. If screws are installed in ‎the bottom holes, the PCB won't sit flush with the mount. Two ‎screws are sufficient for keeping the lens secured in place.‎
Installed Lens Holder
Fasten the screws tightly.‎
Flush Lens
‎8mm tall standoffs have just the right height for the lens holder. ‎
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PCB Mount
PCB Mount Screws
The PCB mount needs the following hardware for installing.‎
‎4 x M2.5 x 8mm female to female standoffs‎
‎4x M2.5 x 4mm screws‎
Installing Standoffs
Insert the nylon screw through one of the mounting holes through ‎the top. Hold in place and install standoff by fastening onto screw ‎thread.‎
Installed Standoffs
Tightly fasten the remaining screws and standoffs.‎
PCB Mount
The hole in the center of the mount can be used for passing wires and cabling through to connect to the HalloWing M4.‎
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Install HalloWing
Install PCB Mount
Press fit the mount through the eye socket from the inside of the ‎base.‎
Installed Mount
The 3D printed PCB mount features a tapered flange that prevents it ‎from falling out. Optionally hot glue it in place for extra security.‎
Install Battery for HalloWing M4‎
Find an empty spot on the bottom base for the battery. I used ‎mounting putty to secure the battery. Other options are hot glue and ‎double-sided foam tape. Plug in the 2-pin JST extension cable.‎
On/Off Switch Wires
If you'd like to use the existing switch, you can wire it up to ‎the EN (enable) and GND (ground) pins on the back of the ‎HalloWing M4 socket headers. Use right-angled male header pins ‎for a low-profile fit. The length of wire is about 8 inches.
Slide Switch Wiring
The built-in slide switch features two sets of pins. Use the available ‎pins to connect the EN and GND pins on the HalloWing M4. Using ‎the middle pin and the one next. The middle position of the switch is ‎the OFF state. The LIGHT state will turn the HalloWing M4 ON. ‎
‎ ‎
Thread Wires
Pass the battery and switch cables through the center hole of the ‎PCB mount. Pull out a good amount of slack for better handling of ‎the wires.‎
Connect Switch Wire
Insert the two header pins from the slide switch to ‎the EN and GND pins on the back header sockets of the HalloWing ‎M4.‎
Connect Battery Wire
Plug in the JST extension cable to the battery port on the back of the ‎HalloWing M4. You may need to remove the screw; it slightly blocks ‎access to the battery JST port.‎
TURN ON the built-in slide switch on the back of the HalloWing M4. ‎It must be on the ON position in order for the circuit to work.‎
Installing HalloWing M4‎
Place the HalloWing M4 PCB over the four standoffs on the PCB ‎mount. Line up the mounting holes with the standoffs.‎
‎ ‎
Secure HalloWing M4‎
Use two M2.5 x 4mm screws to secure the HalloWing M4 PCB to the ‎standoffs.‎
Accessible USB Port
The micro-USB port is accessible for recharging the battery and ‎reprogramming the HalloWing M4. ‎
Reinstall Candy Bowl
Use the three existing screws to reinstall the candy bowl back onto ‎the base.‎
Reinstall Bottom Panel
Fit the bottom panel back onto the base. Make sure to orient the ‎bottom so the IR sensor is lined up with the small hole in base. Insert ‎and fasten the four existing screws to secure the bottom panel to the ‎base.‎
On/Off Slide Switch
The LIGHT position will turn the HalloWing M4 on. The middle ‎position will turn off the HalloWing M4.‎
Touch Test
Touch the four pads on the HalloWing M4 to change the NeoPixel ‎animations. Don't forget to reinstall the candy bowl! ‎
Final Assembly
And there you have it! A creep tricked out haunted candy bowl with ‎sweet RGB LEDs and animated eye!
Going Beyond
There's lots of opportunity to go beyond the scope of this project. The ‎stock candy bowl features a built-in speaker and IR sensor. These ‎could be wired into the headers on the back of the HalloWing M4. If ‎you have experience programming, check out the M4 eyes code on ‎GitHub. There's also plenty of room inside the base for extra goodies ‎such as NeoPixel LED strips.‎
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